Back To Our Roots

We left Fairhaven with emotions running the gamut. Sad to be leaving our friends the Isaksens. Sad that the rendezvous was over. Happy to be on the move again after a week at the dock. Happy that we were about to reach Maine, our summer homes which we had yet to see this year. Sad that our 2+ month trip together was ending. Happy that it had been such a success.

S/V Wolfhound in the foreground approaching the Cape Cod Canal

Once again we timed the departure in order to enjoy favorable currents through the Cape Cod Canal. As we headed up Buzzard's Bay and joined the water traffic funneling down to the canal entrance, radio Channel 13 Canal Control remarked it was unusually busy for a Monday. Like so many times before, we admired a neighboring passage maker, the 55 foot ketch Wolfhound from the Cook Islands. We admired them; they admired us. As we passed, we shouted, "Are you going around the world?" They replied, "Yes. Very slowly!" They reported to Canal Control that they would spend the night in Provincetown, at the tip of Cape Cod, and the next in Halifax, Nova Scotia. Wait a minute. What about the rest of the fantastic New England coast? Had we shared an anchorage that night, we would have become friends and set them straight.

Our destination was Scituate south of Boston, not P'town. But as we exited the canal and entered Cape Cod Bay the sea conditions were so favorable that we decided to go to Manchester well beyond Beantown. It was a ten-hour 78-mile run in open water and the only challenge was dodging infrequent lobster pots.

This was quite a change from our days on the inland canals, lakes, and rivers. Bob recalled that his "senses went nuts on the East River"; driving the boat, and so much to see.

Bob and Allan were intrigued by the variety of boats and the navigational challenges posed.

Movements of large commercial vessels were no problem; their seasoned captains were well-versed in navigational protocol.

It was the small recreational vessels that were unpredictable.

Entering the Annisquam River

Our captains were pleased that our tugs performed flawlessly, save an incident on Salty Paws due to a loose bolt on the diesel injector pump; ...

...and a thermostat replacement.

Moxie loved the two months of frolicking in fresh water. When she returned to salty environs, taking a gulp was a surprise. And sandy beaches required extra grooming.

On our last day together we encountered a first on the trip: fog; from just outside of Kennebunkport all the way to Linekin Bay, home of Salty Paws.

When safely tied up, Jeanne and Bob took Moxie ashore and returned with a feast of steamed clams. We talked about the trip.

Sharon, Allan, Bill and Keefer in Burlington, VT

... The people ...

Tom Collins on the Erie

... The weather ...

Lower Lake Champlain

... Landscapes ...

... The unexpected...

... Food ...

... Museums ...

... Insights ...

... The historic Erie Canal ...

Whitehall, NY

... Towns vacated by industry when canal commerce waned ...

Little Falls, NY

... and the attempts to revitalize.

... Locking ...

... Navigating ...

Jeanne on the Rideau Canal

... Exploring ...

... Documenting.

Spending two months together is a good test of a friendship. Happy to report that we passed with flying colors; eating every dinner together; never losing sight of the other boat; and sharing our passions for exploration. 

And it's far from over. 

Fairhaven Rendez-vous

Captains Bob and Allan tightly tied at the Fairhaven Shipyard Marina

When we planned our mini-loop voyage it was predicated upon reaching Fairhaven, MA by July 26 for the annual Lord Nelson Victory Tug East Coast Rendezvous. Our timing worked. We met in New York City on May 27, spent two months cruising and actually arrived in Fairhaven four days ahead of schedule. Perhaps we can attribute that to bad weather. (See the previous blog post). 

Five tugs L to R: Tugnacious, Sally W, Salty Paws, Neptune and La Salle

The Fairhaven Shipyard's marina is home to two of our tugs: Neptune and La Salle. Salty Paws and Sally W tugs brought the count to four; and we were joined by two others, Tugnacious and Victorious. Twelve more people came without their tugs (6). Past owners and a slew of friends and family brought the body count close to 40. 

The event was hosted by John and Ellen Isaksen and their extended family. And they really outdid themselves keeping us busy and full of food.

 We were treated to a tour of the Fairhaven / New Bedford Harbor, rich with maritime, military and manufacturing history; and a large population of Portuguese and Norwegians.

This harbor is home of New England's largest fishing fleet. In the 19th century it was the nation's most important whaling port. New Bedford was known as the city that lit the world. The Whaling Museum is part of the district designated by the National Park Service and a must see.

The Isaksens also arranged for us to take a walking tour of Fairhaven. There are several buildings here which seem rather grandiose for this modest unassuming town. 

They were financed, built, and donated to the town by Henry Huddleston Rogers, who grew up there. From humble beginnings Rogers became an industrialist and financier, working for Standard Oil and branching out into many other areas. The appearance of the buildings suggests that he was very wealthy. One of the most amazing facts about him is the extent of his wealth. According to our tour guide: on the list of the all-time richest men in the world - ever - Mr. Rogers is 21st; just ahead of JP Morgan and Bill Gates. Number one? John D. Rockefeller.

Fairhaven City Hall

Our docent did an excellent job explaining the historical significance. Rogers requested specific architectural styles. The city hall is high Victorian Gothic.

The upstairs of the City Hall

The Millicent Library is in the Richardson Romanesque style. It was built in memory of Roger's young daughter.

The Unitarian church, designed in the 15th century Gothic perpendicular style, was given in memory of Roger's mother. The ornate great bronze doors each weigh 2-¼ tons. We neglected to ask how one opens them.

Rounding out the informative tours was the chance to step aboard a sea scallop boat. Owner Max Isaksen  gave the tour and described modus operandi. Sea scallops are the richest fishery in the nation. But it's hard work.

Most boats from this port travel to fishing beds south and east of Nantucket. They rake the bottom with long mesh-like dredges. Unlike  bay scallops with ridged shells, sea scallops are much larger and have round flat shells. When the catch is brought aboard, the crew sifts through the mud, rocks, and other "by catch" to separate the sea scallops. They are shucked immediately and iced.

Jeanne Koenig brings goodies to the pot luck.

Did we sample sea scallops? Of course. Max's mother Gail provided copious amounts in the baked variety. We never go hungry on these occasions. Friday night's pot luck brought an array of delicious dishes, including some local fare.

... Clam chowder made by Gail Isaksen ...

... Sandwiches packed with Portuguese pulled pork  ...

... And Butter Almond Bars made by Randi Isaksen. Every confection for coffee hours and meals was made by the Isaksens and friends.

In keeping with the shipyard theme, the final dinner was held in the appropriately named "Big Shed."

We saluted the Isaksens with gifts and accolades and gathered outside for a group picture.

It was hard to leave such a beautiful setting and hospitable family. We've developed a great fondness for this gracious and generous Norwegian clan who worked so hard to make our little event multi-faceted and yummy!

Sound Observations

Our destination after the New York excitement was Fairhaven, MA in Buzzard's Bay. The route along the New England coast called for passage through bodies of water called "sounds." According to google, a sound is an inlet larger than a bay, deeper than a bight and wider than a fjord; or a narrow sea or ocean channel between  two bodies of land. Yup. That describes our route through Long Island Sound, Block Island Sound, and Rhode Island Sound. 

We had objectives: 1) overnight at marinas during the heat wave in order to run the AC; 2) select a suitable location for working girl Jeanne to hop off and take a train to NY for three days of work; and 3) get to Fairhaven for the annual Lord Nelson Victory Tug East Coast Rendezvous.

We spent the first night in Port Washington, NY. This region on Long Island is called "The Gold Coast", peppered with beautiful estates reminiscent of those from The Gilded Age. There was a Vanderbilt property nearby, but it paled to this one. We chose a marina here in order to run our AC to mitigate the 104 degree temp.

Mother osprey tends her flock at the head of Branford Harbor

Our next stop was Branford, CT, a skinny inlet from the sound with a yacht club, marinas and boat yard. Sally grew up nearby and the family had boating friends. Even so, what would be the chance of running into them? Pretty slim, but ... then again ... there they were - the Bacons knocking on the window of Sally W. And even better, Jeanne had spotted this boat at the marina. It was Phil Bacon's recent build. 

One of a kind, just like the Bacon family.

Father Walter, 92, and son Phil came for breakfast. The best part? Walter and his wife Peggy owned  37 Victory Tug #74 for 13 years, calling it "Wayfarer". Allan and Sally talked with them before buying their tug in 2009. They were particularly interested in the roll factor. "Does it roll," they asked? "Nah," Walter said. "It's fine." Hah!

Then we showed him this ...

... and he had a good laugh. Walter taught Allan the principle of WOOF. Every day before starting the boat you need to WOOF. Check the Water, Oil (engine), Oil (transmission), and Fuel filter. Good advice which he follows religiously.

Next stop: Old Saybrook, a lovely town at the mouth of the Connecticut River. We walked around in the sweltering heat. Moxie did not like the hot pavement and preferred to be carried. Jeanne left the next morning on the train for New York. She would rejoin us in Fairhaven for the rendezvous later in the week.

Bob and Moxie continued to trip up the sounds with Sally W. Due to Salty Paws crew desertion and a less than favorable weather forecast, we decided to forego gunk holing for the next four days and hightail it to Fairhaven.

Exiting the Connecticut River into Long Island Sound. It can get pretty crowded in the narrow channel

On the way, we compiled our observations on boats and boaters.

This one gets our vote for least favorite for two reasons. Although it may be designed to accommodate as much "stuff" as possible inside, it doesn't look very sleek nor symmetrical; half the boat is missing (the aft). Tugger Bill Irwin calls this a cheeseburger for its bloated look. The second reason for dislike is that a lot of the captains of these vessels missed the boating 101 lecture on courtesy and wake damage. They like to whiz by us at full speed and too close for comfort. For us full-displacement hull crafts who do 7 knots, this is a five whistle moment, necessitating a quick maneuver off-course to put our bows perpendicular to the wake. Otherwise things inside our boats "go flying."

This one must be cheeseburger's Uncle Whopper. Enough said.

On the subject of boating etiquette, this near-miss with Salty Paws occurred EVEN AFTER radio discussion and agreement that the sailboat had the right of way and would pass in front of the tug. As she approached she turned closer to SP and Captain Bob had to throw her into neutral to avoid a collision.

But there are some better looking boats out there. This is a Ranger Tug. It's smaller than our Victory Tugs but catches a lot of eyes. And the word "cute" is employed here.

As we passed outside of Mystic, CT we were hailed over the radio by the captain of this beautiful schooner, Mystic Whaler. He wanted to know if we were going to Fairhaven. Huh? How did he know that? Apparently, he and his wife have been considering a life change after welcoming guests aboard for many years, and are looking at Victory Tugs. We invited them to come to the rendezvous for a closer look. Which they did later in the week. Nice people.

Passing by Watch Hill, RI, one of the hardest hit towns in the famous Hurricane of 1938. Many homes and hotels vanished. It looks like the white establishment has built one of the world's largest sea walls as a buffer from future fury.

This weather on the final push to Fairhaven was the reason we decided not to dilly dally. Boaters like to call this "snotty." Buzzard's Bay is famous for unkind conditions.

Fortunately, as we passed by Old Cock, the seas started to calm down. It didn't make sense because these waters were shallow and should have made for lumpier conditions. But we didn't complain. By the time we passed through the hurricane gate into the New Bedford/Fairhaven Harbor, tummies were calming down too.

We arrived at the Fairhaven Shipyard four days ahead of our scheduled landing. This is a fascinating place with a marina, home docks for large scallop boats, and repair facilities for seriously large commercial and pleasure boats.

The marina is the home of Victory Tug "Neptune", owned by John and Ellen Isaksen, who hosted the tug rendezvous.

Our early arrival brought an invitation for grilled cheese sandwiches at the Neptune Diner, a Tuesday occasion during boating season. John has elevated this fare to haute cuisine, using trial and error to find the perfect bread, cheese, ham, and tomatoes.

L to R: John's cousin Arne, Chef John, AC, and boat neighbor Tom

He welcomes carefully screened dock regulars ... and guests. Bob, Allan and Sally and a few others thoroughly enjoyed themselves ...

... including this character, Fred, the dock master. Now Fred has a peculiar sense of humor and likes to decorate the environs with unusual notices. His affection for John is manifested in odd ways, and has been going on for years. One of his favorite targets is The Neptune Diner. Read below, but remember, don't believe everything this man writes. Witness his partaking.

CDC BULLETIN: The Fairhaven Shipyard will not be held responsible for any diseases or illnesses contracted due to being in the vicinity of Tug Neptune, aka NEPTUNE DINER. Due to Mr. Isaksen's strong political connections with the Clintons we have not been successful in shutting him down. We strongly advise that you keep as far away as possible from both Mr. Isaksen, aka THE BUTCHER OR NORWAY, and the NEPTUNE DINER. Take heed fellow boaters. You have been warned.

In keeping with tradition, this bulletin is posted every Tuesday in the Neptune's window. These guys know how to have fun!