Thursday, June 8, 2017

Final Push To Waterford


Hudson / Athens Lighthouse at Athens Middle Ground Flats


Hudson, New York has great walkability. Warren Street extends east from the waterfront; numerous shops and restaurants are located along this street. The town is nicknamed Upstate's Downtown by all that make Hudson their weekend get-a-way from New York City. Hudson has been repaid its hospitality to frenzied NewYorkers in expensive architectural historically accurate refurbishment.

Moxie looking in at Sally W's crew enjoying a 30 oz grass fed steak dinner.



Shopkeepers dress their windows with a touch of whimsey and humor.



Please do not disturb these Purrrr-formers at the Sleeping Cat Theatre. Shows daily with no intermission.


Something for everyone at a reasonable price.


This train slowly passed through the center of town without warning from a whistle, gate or signal light.


No one batted an eye.


A picturesque village of interesting old buildings, many restored, some dating back to the late 18th century when Hudson became a whaling center. What? 100 miles up the river? In the late 1700s when the British were around, causing problems, it became necessary to move whaling towns inland.




Next stop: Shady Harbor Marina in Coeymans.  Shortly after arriving, we were pelletted with hail. Allan called the Albany weather bureau to report this and they were surprised and grateful. Both tugs fared well with no leaks or damage.



The storm blew through quickly and Jeanne couldn't resist the stunning backdrop for boat photos. Smile Sally W you are on camera!


Tilt the camera up and the iPhone stops down to reveal the colorful sky.



This marina had a good diesel mechanic and Bob couldn't resist. After all, no trip goes without repairs. And with 5 people and 7 cameras no event goes undocumented either. This photo provides homage to a thermostat replacement on Salty Paws' Cummins diesel. 

Railroad Bridge and Castleton-On-Hudson Bridge


The port of Albany begins 5 miles downstream from Albany, the capital of New York State. Both shores of the river contain commercial port facilities.


Guys love these shots.


A few miles above Albany and Troy this rather unassuming but important sign signals us to make a left hand turn to the Waterford town dock and visitor center where the Erie Canal begins.


We tied up here for two days while Sally and Allan went home to Vermont (not that far; a two hour drive) for a very important family event.

He did it! Charlie, Poppet and Russell Boswell celebrate after the ceremony
Grandson Russell graduated from Stratton Mountain School. He'll spend the summer training and head to the University of New Hampshire in the fall and join the cross country ski team.


Meanwhile back in Waterford, Jeanne, Bob and Tom took in the local color and vittles.


They also explored the area whose topography is heavily influenced by the mighty Mohawk River. The Erie Canal originally flowed through the town of Cohoes in the background. The canal was enlarged and portions moved 100 years ago. This summer marks the 200th anniversary and canal fees are waived.


Here's a view of barge traffic a century ago. Quite a difference from today's mostly recreational boat traffic.


Sally and Allan rejoined the party and we prepared for an early start the next morning to begin locking up.

Lock #2. The first lock of the Erie Canal. (There is no #1.)


HISTORY MOMENT The Erie Canal initially follows the Mohawk River, the Hudson's largest tributary,  to the west. Some 340 miles later, following a sequence of rivers, lakes and dug channels, it reaches the Niagara River between Lake Erie and Lake Ontario at Tonawanda, NY. Built in stages completed in 1825, and today comprised of 35 locks, it became the gateway for westward expansion in the mid-1800s. 





MOXIE MOMENT  "Well today I snatched a package of bratwurst off the galley counter while my people were in the pilot house. Waited for just the right moment and it was an easy step from the salon bench to the counter. I managed to eat 1-½ wursts before getting busted. Boy they were good going down ... and coming up. And darn, they took them back!"

Coming up: Expect the unexpected.



Wednesday, June 7, 2017

The Mighty Hudson River

Morning at Johnson Brothers Point Pleasant NJ. Let the Adventure begin!
Early Saturday morning. Sea conditions were finally favorable for Salty Paws' six-hour cruise up to New York Harbor to meet Sally W.

Lillian + Ethan join Aunt Jeanne for a trip up the Hudson on Salty Paws. Michelle will meet us in Croton.
Bob and Jeanne stopped at Liberty Landing to take on friends for the first official day of our trip.
New York skyline as seen from a southern approach.
Sunny days don't always make for the best photos. Skies turned gray and didn't disappoint, providing a dramatic backdrop to the New York skyline. 


Look carefully over Lily's shoulder and you will spy the famous Little Red Lighthouse tucked under the Great Gray Bridge (GWB)
George Washington Bridge
The Hudson River runs 135 miles to Waterford, NY, where the Erie Canal begins its westerly path.
The Hudson is tidal and traveling against the current can reduce forward progress by 2 knots. Our tugs cruise at 7 knots so that makes a big difference in estimated arrival times.



The Tappan Zee Bridge crosses the Hudson at one of her widest points.

The Tappan Zee Bridge is 24 nautical miles (NM) from the Battery. The old bridge is currently being replaced by a new bridge. A construction project that has been ongoing for several years. Not finished yet!

Captain Bob of Salty Paws

Captain Allan of Sally W
In case you thought the Hudson River is for pleasure boats only, both captains need to stay vigilant at the helm. The waters are a shared thoroughfare with plenty of commercial traffic. 

This day marked the onset of a long stretch of unsettled weather, with lots of rain and seasonally low temperatures.The low temperatures did not bother us but rainfall can fill waterways quickly and create yet one more thing requiring vigilance.


Salty Paws in front of West Point 
The cityscape gradually gives way to unexpected bucolic river settings. We settle into the pristine views of undeveloped shorelines. Then all of a sudden the fortress of West Point appears: nearly two miles of castle-like buildings. The chosen location speaks volumes for strategic placement at a narrow dog-leg in the river. In 1778 the Continental Army ran a chain across the river to hold off the British trying to get up stream to Albany. 

Just beyond West Point it is back to nature and a stretch of the river called World's End, the deepest part at 216 feet.


A few miles later another surprise; the ruins of Bannerman's castle, former home of a Scotsman who made his fortune selling munitions.

Twin Bridges of Poughkeepsie

Esopus Meadows Lighthouse

Kingston Lighthouse at Rondout Creek

The waterfront of Kingston
Kingston, New York is a highlight for boaters making the journey up the Hudson.



Bob, Allan, Tom and a Tug on the hard.

Kingston is a home for boat restoration and boat building projects


Kingston is also a place where retired tugs go to tug-no-more.



We stopped for the night and for a birthday surprise. Daughter Poppet traveled from Vermont with treats for Dad and friends!


Exactly 20 years ago Tom and Allan raised glasses of Mongolian vodka in Ulaanbaatar during a Land Rover expedition. This time it was ice cream cones.



Kingston is the home of Bodacious, one of our Lord Nelson Victory Tugs. 


We were happy to find the owner, her son and friend aboard. They invited us to tie up with them. For one day we were Three Tugs Travelin.



Wednesday, May 31, 2017

The Back Story: When Salty Paws Met Sally W

Jeanne + Moxie + Bob
Summer 2015
Jeanne Koenig and Bob Ewing, of Boothbay Harbor, Maine became interested in Lord Nelson Victory Tugs. They joined the Lord Nelson Association as wannabees, and set out to see one for real.
Sally W in her home slip, Camden, Maine
Lucky for them, the closest tug was Sally W, in nearby Camden.
Sally + Allan Seymour
Owners Sally and Allan Seymour welcomed them aboard and, as they say, the rest is history. Jeanne and Bob loved the tug, and the two couples became good friends.

Salty Paws traveling from Maryland to new home in Maine
In May of 2016, Bob and Jeanne bought 37LNVT#66, Knock Off, changed the name to Salty Paws and spent the summer cruising Maine waters, frequently meeting up with Sally W. By the end of the season the foursome hatched a plan to spend the summer of 2017 cruising the Mini Loop.
A map of the Mini Loop
The Mini Loop route is a popular route beginning in New York Harbor, up the Hudson River, crossing the Erie Canal, up into Canadian waterways, returning to the States into Lake Champlain, and finishing the loop back to New York Harbor.

Captain Allan in his pilot house. Salty Paws off the starboard side

The plan is to take two months to complete the adventure, ending in Fairhaven, MA on July 26 for the annual Lord Nelson Victory Tug Eastern Rendezvous.The first rule of boating; Don't make plans!

We were to meet in New York Harbor to begin the adventure. Salty Paws was to arrive from her winter quarters at Johnson's in Point Pleasant, NJ, while Sally W would arrive from Chester, CT. But, Mother Nature had other plans. Sally W arrived on time, but, due to a nor'easter Salty Paws was delayed one day. That gave Sally W time to explore one of the busiest harbors in the world and to show the sights to our guest, Tom Collins.


Tom hails from Aspen, CO and has traveled the world extensively. Ironically his knowledge of NY paled in comparison to what he could tell you about other places in the world. Crewing on Sally W offered a perspective few others get to see.

Sally W called their friend Will Van Dorp, aka Tugster, legendary blogger about New York's six borough (the NY Harbor). Tugster is the best guide in the world. They had a memorable day.
Circle Line in front of the Freedom Tower
Tugster + Allan + Tom in Sally W pilot house
NY  Harbor: a virtual Richard Scarry Illustration

Sally W in her slip at Liberty Landing after a fun day in the Harbor.

The nor'easter has blown up the coast and out to sea.

Tomorrow Salty Paws will chug the six hours from Point Pleasant, NJ to Liberty Landing, NJ.