Whitehall, NY
We spent the night here after exiting Lake Champlain. This town is at the north end of the Champlain Canal. There was lots of shipbuilding activity here 240 years ago when our forefathers were fighting for independence. Benedict Arnold's gunboat Philadelphia was built here.
In the background under cover lies the remains of the USS Ticonderoga, meaningful because it was built in a town we visited just days ago.
Whitehall prospered during the time when the waterways were the primary transportation for commerce. When rail and roads developed, commerce centers shifted and many towns suffered economic losses too great for recovery.
In Whitehall, only relics remain as reminders of better times.
Too far gone? It appears that nothing can save this old beauty, bowed in the middle. And for what purpose? There aren't enough residents and businesses in Whitehall to fill the space.
But we did find this gem high on the hill overlooking the canal. The owner was happy to talk about the restoration and her love for the neighborhood wildlife. As we chatted a pair of cardinals took turns perching on her side door knob waiting for peanuts.
On the bright side, the breakfast, coffee, and bakery trade seem to be doing well. Jeanne and Bob scoped this out.
But we did find this gem high on the hill overlooking the canal. The owner was happy to talk about the restoration and her love for the neighborhood wildlife. As we chatted a pair of cardinals took turns perching on her side door knob waiting for peanuts.
On the bright side, the breakfast, coffee, and bakery trade seem to be doing well. Jeanne and Bob scoped this out.
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| Shrimp Parmesan at The Tavern |
Just like Yelp, Open Table and other restaurant guides, there are those specific to boaters with reviews of eateries on the waterways. One must always be careful when reading any reviews. Some are too good to be true, as we discovered.
Moxie found the town interesting. She studied this sign and in a rare moment opted to celebrate being a dog.
The Champlain Canal
The Champlain Canal marks the beginning of the Hudson River connecting Lake Champlain to the lower Hudson. It was completed several years after the Erie Canal opened, allowing great growth north of Albany.
The trip is a pleasant two day cruise, beginning with very bucolic settings.
The 11 locks are open from 7 AM to 5 PM. You shouldn't attempt the whole canal in one day. Sometimes it's necessary to wait before entering a lock and can eat up precious time.
We stopped about halfway in Fort Edward for the night. It's yet another struggling town, but full of historical reminders.
Before entering the canal, it's necessary to study all bridge heights and lower your superstructure. The minimum stated clearance of any bridge is 21 feet. BUT, like restaurant reviews, this can't be trusted. This bridge was a nail biter. With high waters from recent rains, one has to be very cautious.
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| A guard gate |
In some instances, when a boat's clearance is 15', the lock master can "lower the pool" to allow for just enough extra clearance to squeak through. We lowered our masts to achieve a 13 foot above waterline height. Peace of mind.
One of the final locks. For Jeanne and Bob, this was approximately their 100th locking experience.
A short time later, back in Waterford, NY we celebrated Salty Paws's completion of the mini loop. The moment is called "crossing the wake."
The two tugs tied nose to nose and Sally recorded the happy occasion.
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