Fairhaven Rendez-vous

Captains Bob and Allan tightly tied at the Fairhaven Shipyard Marina

When we planned our mini-loop voyage it was predicated upon reaching Fairhaven, MA by July 26 for the annual Lord Nelson Victory Tug East Coast Rendezvous. Our timing worked. We met in New York City on May 27, spent two months cruising and actually arrived in Fairhaven four days ahead of schedule. Perhaps we can attribute that to bad weather. (See the previous blog post). 

Five tugs L to R: Tugnacious, Sally W, Salty Paws, Neptune and La Salle

The Fairhaven Shipyard's marina is home to two of our tugs: Neptune and La Salle. Salty Paws and Sally W tugs brought the count to four; and we were joined by two others, Tugnacious and Victorious. Twelve more people came without their tugs (6). Past owners and a slew of friends and family brought the body count close to 40. 

The event was hosted by John and Ellen Isaksen and their extended family. And they really outdid themselves keeping us busy and full of food.

 We were treated to a tour of the Fairhaven / New Bedford Harbor, rich with maritime, military and manufacturing history; and a large population of Portuguese and Norwegians.

This harbor is home of New England's largest fishing fleet. In the 19th century it was the nation's most important whaling port. New Bedford was known as the city that lit the world. The Whaling Museum is part of the district designated by the National Park Service and a must see.

The Isaksens also arranged for us to take a walking tour of Fairhaven. There are several buildings here which seem rather grandiose for this modest unassuming town. 

They were financed, built, and donated to the town by Henry Huddleston Rogers, who grew up there. From humble beginnings Rogers became an industrialist and financier, working for Standard Oil and branching out into many other areas. The appearance of the buildings suggests that he was very wealthy. One of the most amazing facts about him is the extent of his wealth. According to our tour guide: on the list of the all-time richest men in the world - ever - Mr. Rogers is 21st; just ahead of JP Morgan and Bill Gates. Number one? John D. Rockefeller.

Fairhaven City Hall

Our docent did an excellent job explaining the historical significance. Rogers requested specific architectural styles. The city hall is high Victorian Gothic.

The upstairs of the City Hall

The Millicent Library is in the Richardson Romanesque style. It was built in memory of Roger's young daughter.

The Unitarian church, designed in the 15th century Gothic perpendicular style, was given in memory of Roger's mother. The ornate great bronze doors each weigh 2-¼ tons. We neglected to ask how one opens them.

Rounding out the informative tours was the chance to step aboard a sea scallop boat. Owner Max Isaksen  gave the tour and described modus operandi. Sea scallops are the richest fishery in the nation. But it's hard work.

Most boats from this port travel to fishing beds south and east of Nantucket. They rake the bottom with long mesh-like dredges. Unlike  bay scallops with ridged shells, sea scallops are much larger and have round flat shells. When the catch is brought aboard, the crew sifts through the mud, rocks, and other "by catch" to separate the sea scallops. They are shucked immediately and iced.

Jeanne Koenig brings goodies to the pot luck.

Did we sample sea scallops? Of course. Max's mother Gail provided copious amounts in the baked variety. We never go hungry on these occasions. Friday night's pot luck brought an array of delicious dishes, including some local fare.

... Clam chowder made by Gail Isaksen ...

... Sandwiches packed with Portuguese pulled pork  ...

... And Butter Almond Bars made by Randi Isaksen. Every confection for coffee hours and meals was made by the Isaksens and friends.

In keeping with the shipyard theme, the final dinner was held in the appropriately named "Big Shed."

We saluted the Isaksens with gifts and accolades and gathered outside for a group picture.

It was hard to leave such a beautiful setting and hospitable family. We've developed a great fondness for this gracious and generous Norwegian clan who worked so hard to make our little event multi-faceted and yummy!